Nanjing! 南京!

27-28 April 2016

187 miles northwest of Shanghai is Nanjing, a.k.a.: Nanking. Some of you may remember learning about the Rape of Nanking in your history or literature classes. One-in-the-same.

An hour and a half on the G-train and a short metro ride (the metro here is operated via coins, FYI) and I'm in the city center.

Upon emerging from the hollowed depths of the metro, I find myself in the middle of the war to end all wars. A single modern palace is besieged upon by opposing forces. The courtyard is no-mans-land, sprawled with friend and foe; wearing their chosen badges proudly as they partake in quiet discourse. Hushed tones plot the demise of the opposition under the shelter of branded canvas while each loyal vanguard clings to what's left of their precious black-gold. The battle field is littered with emerald and crimson placards emblazoned with their infamous insignia. Yes, it's the battle of Hogwarts, the Battle of Waterloo, of Yorktown, and Agincourt! It's... Starbucks v. Costa Coffee! Now, I find myself plagued with the paralysis of indecision. Which side do I choose?!?!

...Needless to say, I found this terribly amusing. 

Adjacent to the battle field, a memorial was erected to remember those lost to carbonated caffeine.

In the aftermath of the Spring Festival, these forgotten, yet lovely miniature lanterns continue to grace the branches of this cherry blossom tree.

Umbrellas artfully strung above a courtyard to provide shade to passersby and diners.

A small pop-up market selling all sorts of handmade goods and trinkets.

A beautifully decorated patio adorned with stained-glass windows and foliage braided through the eaves.

The Gate of the Presidential Palace and the China Modern History Museum.

The Palace housed the Office of the President of the Republic of China since 1927 until it was moved to Taiwan in 1949.

Note: Republic of China and the People's Republic of China (or PRC) are not synonymous. PRC=Mainland China, while ROC=Taiwan. Learn more here.

Entering the Palace.

There was a lot to see in this museum. Not all of it is English-speaker friendly, but many exhibits do come with multi-lingual placards. It's worth a tour, especially if you have a few hours to kill before you can check into your hotel room...

A Propaganda piece, in French.

Seems rather poignant these days...

You've got England, Germany, the USA, Russia, and Japan all wanting a piece of that China pie.

The Meeting Hall in it's original WWII-era state.

The Exterior of one of the many buildings on the property. One of the more beautiful, in my opinion. It's like New Orleans meets China.

A quiet place for a rendez-vous.

The old and the new.

I love the little bridges.

So well manicured!

A small pavilion atop a rock sculpture of... rock. I really had no idea what the deal was with all the rocks, so I did some research and here's what I found...

"Rock Gardens and Rock Decor

Every Chinese garden has some type of rock element. Some designers opt for a simple rock garden, while others construct miniature mountains from a collection of rocks. Sometimes gardeners make mountains from both rocks and dirt. Large, classic Chinese gardens will have a huge faux mountain with a pavilion located at the summit.

Rocks are chosen based on their shape, texture, substance, color and softness. Limestone rocks that have taken strange shapes due to erosion are among the most valued rocks for Chinese gardeners.

Meaning of Rock Mountains

Including a miniature mountain in the Chinese garden isn’t just for aesthetics. Mountains have symbolic meaning in Chinese culture, too. Mountain peaks symbolize virtue and stability. They also symbolize belief in the philosophy laid out by Confucius. Also, the legend of the Isles of the Immortals had a mountain peak as its main focus point, which is why the mountain is a central unit in several Chinese gardens."

From China Highlights

Hobbit Hole, anyone?

The beautiful garden.

Close up shot on a wall decal.

A royal throne for a royal tush.

A statue with another cool wall medallion.

More well manicured gardens, and beautiful footpaths.

A picturesque pond, complete with a bridge, hobbit hole, and Chinese landscaping.

Some important looking building sporting key elements of Communism-era architecture.

Feeling a bit knackered, I walked the few blocks to my hotel. The Golden Eagle Summit Hotel. I spoiled myself a bit on this trip and went for a Suite, complete with a view and a bathtub!! I made full use of that tub. Bubble baths really are wonderful!

After checking in, I decided to see what I could find for dinner. A quick search on iMaps (yes, it works in China) and I found a good ol' Irish Pub. A 5 minute taxi ride later, and I am walking down a beautiful alleyway that I imagine gets pretty busy on the evenings and weekends. I found the pub, and stepped inside. As it was still a little early, the only other person inside was a man, sitting at the bar with a guitar, singing an old folk tune. ...and I am dying inside a little. How perfect! He saw me and immediately jumped up and laid the guitar on the bar. He greeted me in a lilting Scottish (yes, Scottish) accent and asked what he can do for me. I saddled up to the bar and asked what he could recommend on the menu. He said the roast is quite delicious, so that and a Kilkenny is what I ordered. We sat and chatted, just the two of us; swapping back stories and discussing current events and whatnot. I also learned he is not just the bartender, but the owner of this fine establishment.

After a bit he asked if he might play me a song. I all but begged him to. So, he resumed his seat at the bar and strummed the strings as he began to wail out Wilde Mountain Thyme, a song I am very familiar with. The scene is so perfect, my eyes actually began to well up a bit. I was completely captured by the moment, I could hardly move for fear of ruining it.

Needless to say, the food was delicious, as promised. The atmosphere was charming and homey, and the service was wonderful. I would highly recommend this place should you find yourself in Nanjing.

Oh, and for all my fellow Oregonians... they have Rogue's Dead Guy on tap. Win!

After the delightful meal, I bid my farewells and caught a taxi back to the hotel. I made myself a lovely bubble bath, then nestled into my large, cozy bed.

I woke up early, checked out of the hotel and had the front desk call me a taxi. The first stop of the day was...

Hall of Sun Yat-Sen Mausoleum
Or, as I like to call it.... The Pilgrimage. There's about .25 miles of a slight incline, then another .2 miles of.... stairs. Shade is minimal, and the vendors have a monopoly on the bottled water service at the top, so pack it with you.

The first flight of stairs.

The next "set" of stairs...

A look back. You can see the path fade into the horizon...

What's at the top? A Mauseleum to Sun Yat-Sen, a Chinese revolutionary, first president and founding father of the Republic of China, and a medical practitioner. He's one of the few people from the early revolution years to be honored by PRC citizens. You can learn more about him here.

After Sun Yat-Sen, I traveled across town to the Memorial of the Nanjing Massacre. This was one powerful Memorial. I remember learning about this in school, but nothing had prepared me for this. I couldn't begin to image actually experiencing or witnessing a tragedy like this.


300,000 innocent lives in 6 weeks.

Halfway through, my gut was sore, and my tear ducts were barely hanging in there.

The first statue upon entering the memorial grounds.

As you walk down the side of the main building, you see these depictions of brutality and heartbreak.

300,000.

Three Hundred Thousand.

Trois Cents Mille.

Trecente Mila.

Dreihunderttausend.

In remembrance. Let these atrocities never again be committed.

Iris Chang, Journalist, Historian, Human Rights Activist and Author of The Rape of Nanking.

An eternal flame burns in remembrance of those lost.

Never Again.

At the end of the memorial is a tribute to the pursuit of Peace.

PEACE.

Forgive, but never forget.

Hangzhou! 杭州!

HANGZHOU 杭州市
("Hahng-joe")

21 April 2016

Up and out the door at 6:30, at the train station by 7:30. Why? As a laowai who speaks minimal chinese, getting tickets can easily be one of the most frustrating things ever. You don't have the luxury of being able to purchase them online or through mobile apps like locals. You have to be physically present at the station to purchase them. You will need your passport and it's good to at least know a) The name of the Station (there are often multiple stations in most cities), and b) when you would like to arrive. Also a good idea to bring oodles of patience, as you will no doubt be waiting in a rather lengthy line. If you make a special trip to the station, you can buy tickets in advance and it's a good idea if you plan on travelling during a national holiday. Otherwise, you may end up stranded, or worse... standing.

        

HINT: Your boarding gate is in the upper-right corner. In this case: gate 10. Then it's the 11th car, seat 13F. The ticket cost 73 Yuan.

The G Train (Bullet Train) leaves from Shanghai's Hongqiao Station. Approximately 40 minutes and 100 miles later, I arrive in Hangzhou. I leave the train station and descend into the depths that is the Metro System...






With a quick glance around the station, I learn the Hangzhou metro also functions via paper tickets; so I make a b-line for the automated ticket machines. For the cost of a few yuan I have a single journey ticket that will get me to Longxianqiao-West Lake Metro Station. From this point, I travel on foot and ferry as I discover the sights and stories of this legendary lake.

I could not have had better weather (my sunburn proves it). I emerged from the metro station and immediately donned my sunglasses. I turned east and headed towards the lake. Visually, the city looks much like many parts of Shanghai, but there seems to be a difference in pace or rhythm. Hangzhou seems more laid back, and devoted to enjoying life, not always running to catch up to it.

I crossed a main thoroughfare and the buildings make-way to vibrant green trees, and multitudes of spring blooms. The lake beyond glittered under the sun, and the blue skies boasted of clean air. It was refreshing to see rolling hills and distant mountains. (Okay, they're small mountains, but give me a break!)

I walked north along the lakeshore to the Bai Causeway and the Broken Bridge. It's a roughly half-mile long, man-made bridge that allows easy access to many tourist features around the lake. I traversed the long, shadeless causeway, and when I finally reached the other side, I nestled under the shade of a willow (maybe?) for a bit of a picnic lunch. Some Chinese tourists took the opportunity to take photos of the blonde laowai, sitting on the ground with her lunch. But it didn't bother me. I snacked and reflected on the story of Bai Suzhen and Xu Xian, from my days as an acting intern and understudy with the Oregon Shakespeare Festival. The White Snake (Dir. Mary Zimmerman) was one of the most magical productions I have ever seen. And yet, the instruments and techniques used in creating the magic were so simple, creative, culturally fitting, and beautiful.

There's a story that takes place at the infamous West Lake and LeiFeng Pagoda. A serpent spirit desperately wants to be human, so she transforms herself and descends to earth to experience human life. At the legendary Broken Bridge (Bai Causeway) she meets and falls in love with Xu Xian--a human--when he lends her his umbrella during a storm (Umbrella's are kind of a big deal in China...) I won't spoil it for you, but to give you an idea; their love is tested, as are their brains and bravery as a villain presents itself in the form of a Buddhist monk named Fa Hai who wishes to separate the two forever. It's a beautiful story, and I encourage you to seek out some version of it. If you enjoy reading scripts you can purchase Mary Zimmerman's script online. If you are strapped for time or cash, you can view the Study Guide for Zimmerman's play here.

 After lunch, I paid 40RMB for the ferry to LeiFeng Pagoda (雷峰塔), by way of the "Fairy Island" or as the locals know it: Three Ponds Mirroring the Moon. I strolled around this curious little islet, stopping to take pictures of macaws, the surrounding landscape, and enjoy an ice cream.

The Macaws were beautiful! But when I went to take pictures the lady with them gave me the most terrifying look and quickly moved to block my shot. As a result, this is the only picture I was able to get of them. Grr...









This qualifies as a legitimate bridge in China. In the USofA, we would call this a lawsuit. Naturally, I thought it was really cool and fun.
















After completing the circuit around the islet, I continued to the ferry that traversed the remainder of the lake. When I disembarked on the other side, I could see Leifeng Pagoda standing tall in the near distance. Using it as my guiding star, I promenaded down the path, being particularly liberal with my camera...

The docks sported all varieties of boats....

 A quaint, decorative pond.

LeiFeng Pagoda

 Underneath the visible Pagoda lay the ruins of the old LeiFeng Pagoda. Originally built in 975 AD, it collapsed in 1924, and was rebuilt in 2002.

Sometime during the Ming Dynasty, Hangzhou was attacked by Japanese Pirates. Believing the Pagoda to house weapons, the Pirates raided and burned much of the structure, which consisted of wood and brick.



Fast forward a few centuries, throw in some fun superstition and people begin stealing bricks from the Pagoda, believing them to carry healing abilities and prevent miscarriages. This continuous-clepto-trend eventually led to it's collapse in 1924.

What remains of the original structure is beautifully preserved underneath the existing reincarnation of LeiFeng Pagoda. And as offering to either a Buddhist diety, or to the curation and preservation of the place, people throw money into the ruins exhibit.

Ascending upstairs, the story of The White Snake is depicted in intricate wood carvings all the way around the octagonal room. Each carving shows an intricate tableau of a pivotal moment in the story.

For those of you who may be wondering, or for whom it may be necessary, there is an elevator to this floor, but I do not remember it going all the way to the top floor...

...I'm a sucker for a good view...

 From the top of the Pagoda, looking down on the immediate surroundings; the stairs descending to the street, and the terrace upon which the Pagoda is built.

 West Lake and the Fairy Islet from the top floor. You can see Sudi Causeway (easily a mile long) on the left side of the islet, and downtown Hangzhou on the right.

 Downtown Hangzhou and some surrounding greenery from the top of LeiFeng Pagoda.

Léi Fēng Tǎ in all her glory.

 Returning to the Downtown side of the lake, saying goodbye to LeiFeng.

After spending nearly an hour waiting for a bus that never came (they do that sometimes...), and getting ignored by taxi drivers (they do that sometimes...) I decided to just pay for another ferry trip back across the lake. Which provided some pretty great views as the sun began to set, and an evening storm began to roll in. Once back across the lake, I ducked into a coffee shop to charge my phone for a few minutes and refuel before heading back to the mayhem that is the train station.

 By this time, I am hot, sweaty, tired, hungry, cranky, headachey, a little dehydrated, and ready to not be on my feet or anywhere near crowds. I waited about an hour and half to buy a train ticket, and as it was nearing the end of the day, the trains were beginning to fill up. I had a two hour wait before mine departed.... ugh.

Part of me almost wished I had planned on staying the night in Hangzhou so I could have simply retired to my hotel room. But I put in my headphones, pressed play on the Hamilton soundtrack, bought a tea and a large water bottle, and toughed it out a little longer. I hiked--or rather, rode the escalator, but at this point anything involving being on my feet felt like a hike-- to the top floor and perched myself high above the chaos while I waited for my train to start boarding...

I made it home, and fell into bed about 22:00.

Even though I was dead tired by the end of the long day... it was well worth it.

Thanks, Hangzhou.